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What is Polki Diamond Jewellery and Why is Jaipur Famous for It?

tanzanite polki choker with 18K gold by taparia jewels jaipur

Polki diamond jewellery is one of India's most treasured traditional crafts — and Jaipur, Rajasthan is its undisputed home. At Taparia Jewels, we have been crafting authentic Polki diamond jewellery in Jaipur since 1986, and in this guide we explain everything you need to know.

 

What is a Polki Diamond?

 

A Polki diamond is a natural, uncut, unpolished diamond. Unlike modern brilliant-cut diamonds that are shaped and faceted for maximum sparkle, Polki diamonds are used in their completely natural state — straight from the earth, into the jewellery setting.

Each Polki diamond is unique. No two pieces are exactly alike. This natural variation is what makes Polki diamond jewellery so special and so valued by connoisseurs of traditional Indian jewellery.

 

What Makes it Different?

 

The beauty of this jewellery lies in its raw, organic character. The diamonds have a soft, warm glow — very different from the sharp brilliance of modern cut diamonds. When set in gold using traditional techniques, the result is jewellery that feels ancient, regal, and deeply personal.

It has been worn by Indian royalty for centuries. Mughal empresses, Rajput queens, and Jaipur's own royalty traditionally wore Polki diamond jewellery at weddings and important occasions.

 

Why is Jaipur Famous for Polki Diamond Jewellery?

 

Jaipur became the centre of this jewellery because of three factors.

First, Jaipur has a centuries-old tradition of skilled karigars — master jewellery artisans who have passed their craft from generation to generation. The techniques for setting Polki require years of training and cannot be learned quickly.

Second, Jaipur is the gemstone trading capital of India. The city has direct access to the finest uncut diamonds and precious stones used in Polki jewellery.

Third, the royal patronage of Jaipur's Maharajas for centuries elevated the craft to its highest levels. The standard set by royal jewellers of Jaipur remains the benchmark for Polki diamond jewellery across India.

 

Open Setting vs Closed Setting

 

There are two main techniques for Polki setting.

In closed setting, the diamond sits in a gold cup with a foil backing. The foil reflects light back through the stone and enhances its appearance. This is more common and more affordable. It lacks transparancy and accountability as closed setting jewellery include wax. Also you can see traditional meenakari work behind the set.

In open setting — our specialisation at Taparia Jewels — each Polki is held in an open gold frame with no backing. Light passes through the diamond from both sides. The result is a more luminous and more natural appearance that jewellery experts consider the finest form of Polki diamond jewellery.

Open setting requires significantly more skill than closed setting. This is why genuine open setting Polki diamond jewellery is valued more highly.

 

How to Buy Authentic Polki Diamond Jewellery in Jaipur

 

When buying this jewellery, look for a manufacturer with a documented heritage and transparent pricing. As direct manufacturers we eliminate middlemen — so you pay fair manufacturer prices for genuine craft.

Taparia Jewels is located at C Scheme, Jaipur. We are open by appointment Monday to Saturday. WhatsApp us to schedule your visit.

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